Hair Care Ingredients Guide: Sulfates, Silicones & More

1Chapter 1

How to Read Ingredient Lists

The First 5-7 Rule

Ingredients are listed in descending order by weight. The first 5-7 ingredients typically make up 70-90% of the product. Pay the most attention to what's at the top of the list.

Pro Tip

Water (Aqua) is almost always the first ingredient in hair products. The second and third ingredients tell you the product's true character—moisturizing oils, proteins, or styling polymers.

2Chapter 2

Beneficial Ingredients to Look For

2.1Humectants (Moisture Attractors)

Draw moisture from the air into your hair

Common Humectants

• Glycerin — The most common, very effective
• Aloe Vera — Soothing and moisturizing
• Honey — Natural humectant with conditioning properties
• Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) — Adds moisture and shine
• Propylene Glycol — Synthetic but effective

Climate Note

In very humid climates, humectants can cause frizz. In dry climates, they may pull moisture from your hair instead.

2.2Emollients (Softeners & Smoothers)

Coat the hair shaft to smooth cuticles and add shine

Common Emollients

Natural Oils:

• Coconut Oil
• Argan Oil
• Jojoba Oil
• Olive Oil

Butters:

• Shea Butter
• Cocoa Butter
• Mango Butter

2.3Proteins (Strengtheners)

Fill gaps in damaged hair and improve elasticity

Common Proteins

• Hydrolyzed Keratin — Mimics hair's natural protein
• Hydrolyzed Silk — Lightweight, adds shine
• Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein — Volumizing
• Collagen — Strengthening

Caution

Too much protein makes hair stiff and brittle. Use protein treatments sparingly (every 2-4 weeks) unless hair is severely damaged.

3Chapter 3

Ingredients to Avoid (or Use Carefully)

Sulfates (Harsh Cleansers)

Strip natural oils, cause dryness and frizz. Especially harsh on curly, colored, or damaged hair.

• Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
• Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
• Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate

Exception: Use sulfate shampoos for clarifying (once a month) to remove buildup.

Silicones (Coating Agents)

Create a smooth coating on hair. Can cause buildup and require sulfates to remove. Not inherently bad, but incompatible with CGM.

Non-water-soluble:

• Dimethicone
• Cyclomethicone
• Amodimethicone

Water-soluble (CGM-friendly):

• Dimethicone Copolyol
• PEG-modified silicones

Drying Alcohols

Evaporate quickly and can dry out hair. Problematic in high concentrations.

Avoid:

• Alcohol Denat
• SD Alcohol 40
• Isopropyl Alcohol
• Ethanol

Fatty alcohols (safe):

• Cetyl Alcohol
• Cetearyl Alcohol
• Stearyl Alcohol
• Behenyl Alcohol

4Chapter 4

Styling & Hold Ingredients

Polymers & Film Formers

Create hold and definition in gels, mousses, and styling creams.

• PVP (Polyvinylpyrrolidone) — Strong hold, creates "crunch"
• Carbomer — Gel thickener
• Acrylates Copolymer — Flexible hold
• Flax Seed Extract — Natural hold and shine
• Pectin — Natural styling agent

5Chapter 5

Matching Ingredients to Your Hair

Low Porosity Hair

Best: Lightweight humectants (glycerin, aloe), liquid oils (argan, grapeseed)
Avoid: Heavy butters, coconut oil, protein (unless heat-damaged)

High Porosity Hair

Best: Proteins, heavy oils and butters, anti-humectants in humidity
Avoid: Lightweight products that won't seal moisture

Fine Hair

Best: Lightweight proteins, volumizing polymers, panthenol
Avoid: Heavy oils, butters, silicones (can weigh down)

Damaged/Color-Treated Hair

Best: Proteins, ceramides, sulfate-free cleansers, UV protectants
Avoid: Harsh sulfates, drying alcohols

Key Takeaways

First 5-7 ingredients make up most of the product
Humectants draw moisture in; emollients smooth and seal
Proteins strengthen but can cause brittleness if overused
Sulfates strip oils—avoid unless clarifying
Non-water-soluble silicones cause buildup
Drying alcohols are bad; fatty alcohols are good
Match ingredients to your porosity and hair type

Find Products with the Right Ingredients

Our product database analyzes ingredients to match your hair's needs. Get personalized recommendations based on your hair type, porosity, and goals.

Hair Care Ingredients Guide: What to Look For & Avoid