Why Your Hair Type Matters
Before you can build a hair care routine that works, you need to understand what you're working with. "Hair type" gets thrown around a lot, but it actually encompasses several different properties — and each one affects which products and techniques will give you the best results.
Most people focus exclusively on their curl pattern and ignore everything else. But two people with the same curl pattern can need completely different products if one has low porosity and the other has high porosity, or if one has fine hair and the other has coarse hair.
Hair type is just one piece of the puzzle. A complete hair profile includes:
- Texture/curl pattern (1A-4C) — the shape of your individual strands
- Porosity — how well your hair absorbs and retains moisture
- Density — how many strands you have per square inch of scalp
- Strand thickness — the diameter of each individual hair strand
- Scalp type — oily, dry, balanced, or sensitive
You can have thick, dense hair with fine individual strands — or thin, sparse hair with coarse individual strands. "Thick" and "thin" in everyday language usually refer to density, but in hair care, strand thickness and density are separate properties that require different approaches.
Step 1: The Wet Test (Curl Pattern)
The most reliable way to determine your natural curl pattern is to observe your hair when it's soaking wet and free of all products. This removes the influence of styling, heat damage, and product buildup.
- 1. Wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo to remove all product buildup
- 2. Do NOT apply conditioner, leave-in, or any product
- 3. Let your hair hang naturally — don't touch, scrunch, or twist it
- 4. Observe your hair while soaking wet and compare to the types below:
Type 1 (Straight)
Hair hangs straight down with no bend or wave. 1A is pin-straight and fine, 1B has some body and medium texture, 1C is straight but coarse with some volume.
Type 2 (Wavy)
Hair has a visible S-shaped wave pattern. 2A has a loose, barely there wave. 2B has more defined S-waves starting from mid-length. 2C has well-defined waves that may start near the root with some spiral curls mixed in.
Type 3 (Curly)
Hair forms definite spirals or ringlets. 3A has large, loose spirals (think sidewalk chalk width). 3B has bouncy ringlets (marker width). 3C has tight corkscrew curls (pencil width or smaller).
Type 4 (Coily/Kinky)
Hair has a very tight curl or coil pattern, often forming Z-shapes rather than S-shapes. 4A has defined tight coils. 4B has Z-shaped bends with less defined curl. 4C has very tight coils with minimal curl definition and maximum shrinkage.
Many people have more than one curl pattern on their head. It's common to have looser curls around the face and tighter curls at the nape of your neck. Some people have 2-3 different types! Focus on your dominant pattern for product selection.
Step 2: The Porosity Test
Porosity determines how your hair interacts with moisture and products. Two people with the exact same curl pattern can need completely different products based on their porosity. This is arguably more important than curl type for product selection.
- 1. Take a few clean, product-free hair strands (shed hairs from your brush work well)
- 2. Fill a glass with room temperature water
- 3. Drop the strands in and wait 2-4 minutes
- 4. Check where the hair is:
- Floats on top = Low porosity — cuticles are tightly sealed, products tend to sit on hair
- Floats in middle = Medium porosity — balanced absorption and retention
- Sinks to bottom = High porosity — cuticles are raised, absorbs fast but loses moisture fast
Spray a small section of clean, dry hair with water and observe:
- Water beads up and sits on hair = Low porosity
- Water absorbs within a few seconds = Medium porosity
- Water absorbs almost instantly = High porosity
Why Both Tests Matter
Step 3: The Density Check
Hair density refers to how many individual strands of hair grow per square inch of your scalp. This is different from strand thickness — you can have lots of fine strands (high density, fine hair) or fewer thick strands (low density, coarse hair). Density affects how much product you need and which formulations work best.
Gather all your hair into a ponytail and measure the circumference:
- Less than 2 inches = Low density — you can see your scalp easily through your hair
- 2-3 inches = Medium density — you can see some scalp if you look closely
- More than 3 inches = High density — your scalp is barely visible even when hair is wet
Roll a single strand of hair between your fingers:
- Can barely feel it = Fine — individual strands are thin and delicate, easily weighed down by heavy products
- Can feel it = Medium — individual strands have moderate thickness, works with most products
- Feels like thread = Coarse — individual strands are thick and strong, can handle heavy products and oils
The average person has about 100,000 hair follicles on their head. Blondes tend to have the most (around 120,000-150,000), while redheads tend to have the fewest (around 80,000-90,000). But individual strand thickness in redheads is often greater, which can create the illusion of similar overall volume.
Step 4: Scalp Type
Your scalp is skin, and just like your face, it has a type. Scalp health directly affects hair health — an oily scalp can lead to buildup and limp roots, while a dry scalp can cause flaking, irritation, and weakened hair growth. Your wash frequency and shampoo choice should be based on your scalp type, not your hair type.
On day 2 after washing (no dry shampoo), examine your roots and scalp:
- Oily scalp: Roots look greasy by end of day 1. Hair feels heavy at the roots. May notice an odor. You likely need to wash every 1-2 days.
- Dry scalp: Scalp feels tight or itchy. May see small, white flakes (not yellow or crusty — that could be seborrheic dermatitis). You can likely go 4-7 days between washes.
- Balanced scalp: Roots look clean for 2-3 days after washing. No significant oiliness or dryness. You can comfortably wash every 2-4 days.
- Sensitive scalp: Reacts to many products with redness, itching, or burning. May have contact dermatitis. Needs fragrance-free, gentle formulations.
Your hair type can change with damage, age, hormones, and treatments. Pregnancy, menopause, medication changes, and even moving to a different climate can shift your curl pattern, porosity, and scalp type. If your routine suddenly stops working after a major life change, it may be time to reassess your hair profile.
Putting It All Together
Now that you've done all four tests, you have a complete hair profile. Here's how to use it to choose the right products and build your routine:
Low Porosity + Fine Hair
Use lightweight, water-based products. Avoid heavy butters and oils. Apply products to very wet hair and use heat (hooded dryer or steamer) to help products penetrate. Clarify regularly to prevent buildup.
High Porosity + Coarse Hair
Use rich creams, butters, and sealing oils. Layer products using the LOC/LCO method (liquid, oil, cream). Look for protein treatments to strengthen damaged cuticles. Anti-humectants help in humid climates.
Medium Porosity + Medium Density
You have the most flexibility. Most products work well for you. Focus on maintaining balance with regular deep conditioning and occasional protein treatments. Don't overcomplicate your routine.
- 1Wet test: Wash with clarifying shampoo, let hair hang naturally, identify curl pattern (1A-4C)
- 2Float test: Drop clean hair strands in water, observe where they settle to determine porosity
- 3Spray test: Mist water on dry hair to confirm porosity results
- 4Ponytail test: Measure circumference of gathered hair to determine density
- 5Strand test: Roll a single hair between fingers to assess individual strand thickness
- 6Scalp check: Observe roots on day 2 after washing to identify scalp type
The Fast Path: AI Quiz
If doing all these tests feels like a lot (or if you're not confident in your results), there's a much faster option. Our AI-powered hair quiz asks targeted questions about your hair's behavior, appearance, and history to determine your complete hair profile in under 5 minutes — no float tests or ponytail measuring required.
The quiz analyzes your responses to identify your curl pattern, porosity, density, strand thickness, and scalp type, then generates a personalized routine with specific product recommendations matched to your profile. It's the same information you'd get from the manual tests above, but faster and with immediate, actionable results.
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