What is the Curly Girl Method?
CGM emphasizes gentle cleansing, intense moisture, and protective styling. The method has transformed millions of people's relationships with their natural texture by helping them understand what their curls actually need.
The CGM has been around since 2001 and has evolved with input from the curly community. Many people follow a "modified CGM" that adapts the rules to their specific hair needs.
Core CGM Rules
Look For These
- +Gentle cleansers (sulfate-free shampoos, co-wash)
- +Water-soluble ingredients (easy to rinse)
- +Natural oils & butters (coconut, shea, argan)
- +Humectants (glycerin, aloe vera)
Avoid These
- -Sulfates (harsh cleansers that strip oils)
- -Silicones (create buildup requiring sulfates)
- -Drying alcohols (denat alcohol, SD alcohol)
- -Waxes (mineral oil, petrolatum)
- No heat styling — Air dry or use a diffuser on low/cool
- No brushing when dry — Only detangle when wet with conditioner
- Use a microfiber towel or t-shirt — Regular towels cause frizz
- Sleep on silk/satin — Protects curls while you sleep
How to Start the Curly Girl Method: 6 Steps
The Curly Girl Method is a sequence, not a list of products. Each step depends on getting the previous one right — people who say "CGM didn't work for me" often mis-timed the styling step, kept touching their hair while it dried, or started over leftover silicone or wax buildup. Here is the sequence.
Step 1: Clarify only if you have silicone or wax buildup
A clarifying wash is optional and contextual — not a Massey handbook mandate, and not required for every starter. If leftover non-water-soluble silicones or waxes are coating the hair, a gentle clarifying or chelating wash can help those residues rinse out so conditioner can reach the cuticle. If you already use water-soluble products, skip this and start with sulfate-free cleansing. A harsh sulfate "final wash" is community lore, not canonical CGM, and can be drying. If you do clarify, follow with a deep conditioner.
Step 2: Cleanse with sulfate-free shampoo or co-wash
Going forward, cleanse with a sulfate-free shampoo or a conditioner wash (co-wash). Focus the product on your scalp, not the lengths. Massage in circular motions for 60 seconds to lift sweat, sebum, and product residue. Most CGM beginners cleanse 1 to 3 times per week — wavy hair more often, coily hair less often. If your scalp gets itchy or flaky on co-wash alone, alternate with a gentle sulfate-free shampoo weekly.
Find a CGM-approved shampoo for your hairStep 3: Condition and squish to condish
Apply a generous amount of silicone-free conditioner from mid-length to ends, then work some up to your scalp. Detangle with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb while the conditioner is in. Cup sections of hair in your hands and squeeze upward toward your scalp — this is squish to condish (S2C), and it forces water and conditioner into the cuticle. You should hear a wet squelching sound when your hair is fully hydrated. Rinse with cool water if you can tolerate it.
Find a CGM conditioner that works for youStep 4: Style on soaking-wet hair
Do not towel dry. With hair still dripping, apply a leave-in conditioner first using the praying-hands method (smooth between flat palms from root to tip), then a curl cream and a curl gel. Scrunch upward in handfuls to encourage clumping. The single biggest mistake CGM beginners make is applying styling products to damp hair instead of soaking-wet hair — water is the carrier that distributes everything evenly.
Find leave-ins and gels for your curl patternStep 5: Plop and dry
Lay a microfiber towel or cotton t-shirt flat on a surface, flip your head forward into the center, gather the fabric around your hair, and tie it at the nape of your neck. Plop for 10 to 30 minutes to remove excess water without disrupting curl clumps. Then air-dry, or diffuse on low heat and low speed by cupping sections of curls into the diffuser bowl and holding them close to your scalp without moving them. Do not touch your hair while it dries.
Step 6: Scrunch out the crunch (SOTC)
Once your hair is completely dry, your gel will form a hard cast — this is good and means the gel is doing its job. Put a tiny pea-sized drop of light oil (argan, jojoba, or grapeseed) on your palms, rub them together, and gently scrunch your hair from ends toward scalp. The gel cast cracks and breaks, leaving soft, defined, frizz-free curls underneath. Skipping SOTC is the second most common reason CGM looks crunchy instead of bouncy.
Clarifying is optional, and contextual
The first few weeks can feel awkward. Some people notice oilier roots or flatter lengths while they change how they cleanse, how much product they use, and what residue is still rinsing out — that is habit and product-load change, not a mandatory biological "sebum recalibration" clock. Give it a few wash days to learn your pattern before you overhaul everything. There is no universal 2–4 or 4-week wait you must complete.
Essential CGM Styling Techniques
How you apply products and dry your hair matters as much as which products you use. These techniques are the building blocks of defined, frizz-free curls.
Squish to Condish (S2C)
Cup sections of your hair in your hands and squeeze upward while rinsing conditioner. The squishing motion forces water and conditioner into the cuticle. You should hear a "squelching" sound when your hair is fully hydrated.
Praying Hands
Place product between your palms and smooth it over sections of hair from root to tip, as if your hair is between praying hands. This distributes product evenly without disrupting curl clumps. Best for creams and leave-ins.
Plopping
Lay a microfiber towel or cotton t-shirt flat, flip your head forward onto it, and wrap it around your hair. This removes excess water without disturbing curl formation. Leave for 10-30 minutes. Learn more in our plopping guide.
Diffusing
Use a diffuser attachment on low heat and low speed. Cup sections of curls in the diffuser bowl and hold them close to your head without moving. This dries curls faster while preserving definition. Start at the roots for volume, ends for definition.
Scrunch Out the Crunch (SOTC)
Once your gel cast is completely dry and hard, scrunch your hair with a tiny drop of oil on your palms. The cast breaks down, revealing soft, defined curls underneath. This final step is essential—never skip it.
Shingling
Apply product to very small sections and smooth from root to tip with your fingers. This defines each individual curl for maximum definition—especially effective for type 3C and type 4 hair. Learn more in our shingling guide.
CGM by Hair Type
The Curly Girl Method is not one-size-fits-all. Here is how to adapt CGM for your specific hair type:
CGM for Wavy Hair (Type 2A-2C)
Wavy hair is the most prone to being weighed down by heavy CGM products. Use lightweight gels and mousses instead of heavy creams. You may need to wash more frequently (every 2-3 days) with a gentle sulfate-free shampoo rather than co-washing. Skip heavy butters and oils at the roots.See 2C wavy routine →
CGM for Curly Hair (Type 3A-3C)
This is the sweet spot for classic CGM. Use the LOC or LCO method to layer moisture. Rich creams and strong-hold gels work best. Co-washing can work for most Type 3 hair, but alternate with a sulfate-free shampoo weekly for scalp health. Deep condition every 1-2 weeks.
CGM for Coily Hair (Type 4A-4C)
Coily hair needs maximum moisture. Heavy butters (shea, mango), thick creams, and sealing oils are your friends. The LOC method is essential. Wash less frequently (once a week or less) and co-wash between shampoo days. Protective styling is a key part of CGM for Type 4 hair. Refresh with water and leave-in conditioner.
Not Sure About Your Hair Type?
Modified CGM: When to Adapt the Rules
Strict CGM doesn't work for everyone. Here's when you might need to modify:
- Low Porosity Hair
- You might need lightweight products and occasional clarifying washes. Heavy butters and oils can weigh down low porosity hair.
- Fine or Thin Hair
- Skip heavy creams and butters. Stick to lightweight gels and mousses. You may need to wash more frequently.
- Scalp Issues
- If you have dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, or buildup, you may need to use a gentle sulfate shampoo occasionally or add a clarifying wash to your routine.
CGM vs. Modified CGM vs. Wavy Girl Method: side-by-side
The same Lorraine-Massey rulebook gets adapted three different ways depending on who's using it. Here's how the three variants actually diverge in practice — most people land on either modified CGM or wavy CGM after a few months.
| Rule | Strict CGM | Modified CGM | Wavy Girl Method |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sulfates | Never after you start (clarifying is optional) | Monthly clarifying with sodium myreth sulfate is fine | Sulfate-free shampoo every wash; clarify monthly if hard water |
| Silicones | All silicones banned | Water-soluble silicones (PEG-, -PG-) allowed | Light water-soluble silicones for serum/heat-protect only |
| Cleansing | Co-wash often, sulfate-free shampoo rare | Mostly co-wash, sulfate-free shampoo as needed | Sulfate-free shampoo every wash; co-washing weighs waves down |
| Heat | No heat at all | Diffuser on low heat OK; flat irons / curling irons rare | Cool air diffusing or air-dry; occasional low-heat blow dry OK |
| Product weight | Heavy creams + butters layered | Match weight to porosity (light for low, rich for high) | Light gels and mousses; curl creams only for 2C |
| Best for | 3A-4C, high porosity | Most people after 6-12 months — adapts to porosity, climate, hard water | 2A, 2B, 2C waves — often loses pattern under strict CGM |
New to your pattern? See the dedicated 2C wavy, 3A curly, and 4A coily routines for product weight and frequency by curl pattern.
Your CGM transition timeline: what to expect, week by week
People who quit CGM often quit in the first several weeks, when hair can look different while products, cleansing, and leftover residue change. That awkward stretch is common community lore, not a proven biological clock you have to endure. Use these checkpoints as practical wash-day notes — not follicle-cycle biology, and not a rule that you must wait a fixed number of weeks.
First CGM wash day
If you clarified leftover silicone or wax, the first CGM wash can feel like conditioner finally reaches the hair. If you skipped clarifying because you already used water-soluble products, that is fine — just note how your hair responds. One wash day is not a verdict.
Awkward weeks for some people
Some people notice oilier roots or limp lengths while they change cleansers, product amount, and leftover residue. That is not a proven, universal sebum-recalibration clock — sebum is largely endocrine and metabolic. If roots feel greasy, try less product on the lengths and a lighter refresh rather than assuming you must wait a fixed 2–4 weeks. Learn your pattern over a few wash days.
Practical checkpoint — weeks 6–8
By weeks 6–8, some people notice a clearer curl or wave pattern, or a bit less frizz, as products and technique settle. That is a useful observation, not a guaranteed frizz drop or a universal timeline. Keep collecting wash-day notes — the next checkpoint is a better time to decide strict vs modified.
Practical checkpoint — enough wash-day data
By about three months of consistent practice, many people have enough wash-day data to judge whether to stay on strict CGM or switch to modified CGM. If pattern, moisture, and shine still feel off, try one change at a time (for example, more sulfate-free shampoo and less co-wash, or a protein–moisture rebalance). Three months is a practice checkpoint, not a hair cycle — full scalp follicle cycles are measured in years (anagen), not months.
Refresh + maintenance dialed in
Most people settle into a stable rhythm by month 4: a wash day every 3–5 days, a refresh routine for in-between days, and a known good product roster. Long-term hair quality keeps improving for another 6–12 months as damaged lengths grow out and are replaced by healthier new growth.
CGM acronym cheat sheet
Curl forums use a dense acronym vocabulary that shuts beginners out. Here's the working set:
| Acronym | Meaning | In one sentence |
|---|---|---|
| CGM | Curly Girl Method | The Massey rulebook (no sulfates, no silicones, no heat). |
| CG | Curly Girl | Same thing, shorter. |
| S2C | Squish to Condish | Cup water in your hands and squish conditioner up into the hair to maximize cuticle contact. |
| SOTC | Scrunch Out the Crunch | After hair dries with a gel cast, scrunch with a drop of oil to break the cast into soft curls. |
| LOC | Liquid · Oil · Cream | Layering order for high porosity; oil seals before the cream. |
| LCO | Liquid · Cream · Oil | Layering order for low porosity; cream goes in first, oil seals on top. |
| DT | Deep Treatment / Deep Conditioner | A high-protein or high-moisture mask left on for 15+ minutes, often under heat. |
| ACV | Apple Cider Vinegar (rinse) | Diluted ACV used to lower scalp/hair pH, close the cuticle, and add shine. |
| Plopping | (not an acronym) | Wrapping wet styled hair in a microfiber towel or cotton t-shirt for 10–30 minutes to encourage curl pattern. |
| Praying hands | (technique) | Smoothing styling product down each hair section with flat palms before scrunching upward. |
| Pineapple | (overnight technique) | Loose high ponytail at the very crown of the head, on a silk pillowcase, to preserve curls overnight. |
| CGF | CGM Friendly / CG Friendly | Product label shorthand: complies with the no-sulfate, no- silicone rules. |
See the full term-by-term breakdown in our CGM glossary, co-washing, plopping, LOC method, and shingling entries.
CGM Troubleshooting
Common issues people encounter when starting or following CGM, and how to fix them:
Hair feels waxy or weighed down
This usually means product buildup. Do a clarifying wash with a gentle sulfate shampoo or an apple cider vinegar rinse. Then switch to lighter products. You may be using too much or too heavy a conditioner.
Curls are limp and undefined
Try adding a protein treatment—your hair may be over-moisturized (hygral fatigue). Alternate between protein-rich and moisture-rich products. Also ensure you are applying styling products to soaking wet hair, not damp hair.
Scalp is itchy or flaky
Co-washing alone may not be cleansing your scalp thoroughly. Alternate with a gentle sulfate-free shampoo. Add scalp exfoliation once a week. If dandruff persists, see our dandruff guide.
Too much frizz despite following CGM
Check your porosity. High porosity hair needs more sealing (oil-based products). Also avoid touching your hair while drying, use a gel with strong hold, and try plopping instead of air drying loose. See our frizz guide.
Day 2+ curls look terrible
Sleep on a silk or satin pillowcase, or pineapple your curls (loose ponytail on top of your head). In the morning, dampen curls with a spray bottle of water mixed with a little conditioner, scrunch, and let dry. A refresh gel can also help revive definition.
CGM works in winter but stops working in summer (or vice versa)
Glycerin is a humectant that pulls moisture from wherever it's most concentrated. In high humidity it pulls water out of the air into your hair (frizz). In dry air it pulls water out of your hair into the room (dryness). Switch between glycerin-heavy products and glycerin-free / anti-humectant products seasonally — same routine, two product roster.
CGM doesn't work because you have hard water
Hard water deposits calcium, magnesium, and iron on the cuticle after every wash, which mimics the silicone-buildup symptoms CGM is supposed to eliminate. Co-washing makes it worse. Use a chelating shampoo (look for EDTA or sodium gluconate) every 2–3 weeks, and consider a shower-head water filter. See our hard water hair guide for the full protocol.
Curly Girl Method FAQ
What is the Curly Girl Method in simple terms?
How long does it take to see results from the Curly Girl Method?
How do I start the Curly Girl Method as a beginner?
What is the difference between CGM and Modified CGM?
Is the Curly Girl Method good for wavy hair?
Is the Curly Girl Method good for low porosity hair?
Is the Curly Girl Method good for high porosity hair?
Can the Curly Girl Method work with hard water?
What ingredients do you avoid on the Curly Girl Method?
Are water-soluble silicones CGM-approved?
Why isn't the Curly Girl Method working for me?
How do I do a CGM reset wash or final clarifying wash?
Can men do the Curly Girl Method?
What is the CGM transition period and why does my hair look worse?
How do I refresh my curls on day 2 and day 3?
What is the difference between CGM and the LOC method?
- 01CGM eliminates sulfates, silicones, drying alcohols, and waxes
- 02Clarify only if leftover silicones or waxes are blocking moisture; it is not required for every starter
- 03Basic routine: cleanse → condition → style → dry → scrunch out crunch
- 04Master key techniques: squish to condish, praying hands, plopping, SOTC
- 05Adapt CGM to your hair type: lighter for waves, richer for coils
- 06Avoid heat styling and brushing dry hair
- 07Use microfiber towel/t-shirt and sleep on silk/satin
- 08Modify the method based on your porosity and hair type
- 09Give your new cleansing and product habits a few wash days before overhauling the routine
Sources & methodology
The Curly Girl Method as a published rulebook traces back to a single stylist's book; the chemistry that supports the rules comes from the broader cosmetic-chemistry literature. Timeline checkpoints in this guide are practical wash-day notes, not follicle-cycle biology. A one-time sulfate "reset" or "final wash" is community practice, not Massey-canonical. Sources we leaned on for this guide:
- Massey, L. Curly Girl: The Handbook. Workman Publishing, 2011 (rev. ed.). The original CGM rulebook.
- Massey, L. interview with Newsweek (https://www.newsweek.com/what-curly-girl-method-lorraine-massey-cgm-beginners-cg-friendly-products-1608253). Massey is quoted saying the sulfate "final wash" is "NOT part of the Curly Girl Method—this a myth and can be damaging to curls."
- Robbins, C. R. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 5th ed., Springer, 2012. Source for the cuticle-and-porosity science behind the no-sulfate, no-silicone, low-heat rules.
- Brown, T. M., & Krishnamurthy, K. "Histology, Hair and Follicle." StatPearls, NCBI Bookshelf (NBK532929). Scalp anagen typically lasts years, not months — used only to correct the "three months = one hair cycle" claim.
- Natarelli, N., Gahoonia, N., & Sivamani, R. K. "Integrative and Mechanistic Approach to the Hair Growth Cycle and Hair Loss." J Clin Med 2023 (PMC9917549). Same anagen-duration correction (scalp anagen measured in years).
- American Academy of Dermatology guidance on co-washing and scalp health, used as a non-commercial source for the troubleshooting cluster.
- Rituala ingredient analysis system — CGM-friendliness detection used for the ingredient-rules section.
Educational content, not medical advice. If your scalp shows signs of infection, persistent itching, or hair loss in patches, see a dermatologist.
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